Fresh Tracks
Approximately four hours earlier I was in my apartment in Denver awaiting my roommate’s return from work, and my accomplice’s return from a day of skiing. He was in Colorado for the weekend enjoying the powder and vertical drop that New England boys like us used to dream about. I had moved to Denver about two months ago. I packed up my car and moved out without a job or a place to live. I wanted the city life but I also wanted to bask in the wide open beauty of the West that had lured me out here in the first place. Denver provided a perfect balance. The city is an alternative to the cities I was used to back East such as Boston, New York, and Philadelphia. It has the entertainment, nightlife, dining and shopping of a big city, but its proximity to the Rocky Mountains makes it unique. It is a gateway to the towering peaks. The accessibility to outdoor activities is a trademark of Denver. Many people are avid hikers, bikers, skiers, campers, or hunters. The city is very livable, not as cold, old, dirty, cramped or hurried as the cities of the northeast. The Mountains are visible to the west from most points in the city, forming an imposing, mystic barrier. It is humbling to live near the mountains, to everyday rise under the shadow of a magnificent natural creation. This was evident in the people of the city. I found them friendly and generally enjoyable to be around. The city is a melting pot. I had encountered pockets of transplants from many other states. Denver contains ghettos of a modern city. These residents are immigrants in their own right, leaving their place of birth behind for the quality of life offered by the sunny skies and mystic mountains of Colorado. I was one of them.
I expected my accomplice to be back from skiing already, but figured he was just taking as many runs as possible, basking in the supreme early-season conditions. At around 6 o’clock my roommate returned and notified me his train was running six hours late due to engine trouble. He was stuck at a bar by the train station. We made the quick decision to head into the mountains and save him. I was worried. I had looked into seasonal employment at some of the local mountains and encountered many strange characters. Many dream of being a ski bum, but it takes a certain kind to actually do it. They are a desperate lot with nothing to lose. They are in exile, running from something, seeking refuge in the towering peaks. Many carry heavy baggage. They can be dangerous.
We gathered our gear, loaded the truck, and set off to rescue our accomplice. There was considerable traffic heading West on I-70. Some was commuter, while many were headed to the mountains like my roommate and myself. Hordes of people flock to the Rocky Mountains every weekend seeking refuge from the 9-5 rat race. The Mountains are visible to the west from most points in the city, forming an imposing, mystic barrier. It is humbling to live near the mountains, to everyday rise under the shadow of a magnificent natural creation. The serenity of the mountains is therapy for an overcrowded, overworked population. This weekly pilgrimage is a central component to many Denverites’ lives.
About 25 miles west of Denver the Plains end abruptly. Rolling hills mark the beginning of high country. Leaves and grass are dead this time of year. The land is golden-brown with patches of snow. The hills steadily become taller and rockier. Off in the distance are tall plateaus. The road is still quite flat, but snow-covered peaks are lost behind the looming foothills. Several peaks are snow capped year round, a reminder that despite their proximity, the mountains are a different world
And suddenly reddish, sand colored chunks of rock rise 300-600 feet into the air. A few crops of hearty vegetation cling to their otherwise barren face. The road climbs decidedly upward, and the car’s engine demands a downshift.
The towering terrain and high altitude are disorienting. Many times I thought the pitch of the road had evened out, but the engine’s struggle indicated otherwise.
It didn’t take long to adjust to the surroundings, but caution was necessary. Every stretch of road warrants careful evaluation. I didn’t let the scenic grandeur fool me. This was dangerous territory. Every few miles a car was pulled over to the side of the road. Some had their blinkers on, awaiting help. Others were abandoned. They were victims of the mountains, a reminder that high spirits can quickly be grounded. The inclines tax the engine, the declines tax the brakes. A failure of the latter could prove a fatal plunge through one of the flimsy guard rails. This grim possibility keeps drivers at attention. One moment of lapsed concentration could prove fatal in this country.
We were now in the thick of the mountains. We passed avalanche warning signs and herds of Bighorn Sheep. We mounted a crest that curved up and to the right and the snowy peaks reappeared. On this clear day they were completely exposed. They were breathtaking, almost too beautiful and grand to be real. I savored the view as the road entered a down grade and they passed out of sight before a more immediate peak.
Highway builders designed the road along the path of least resistance, but they were limited. Some places are too large to be blasted, and so at times the road must go over, around, or straight through the rock. I-70 had long been 2 lanes, and traffic was becoming denser. Suddenly brake lights illuminated in succession. We rounded the corner and saw a state trooper with its lights on in the break down lane. It seemed to be a warning. Not a moment later I saw why. Just ahead were five more cruisers, each with a vehicle pulled over.
They were all occupied, and we didn’t worry much. But I still had a queasy feeling in my stomach. The cops represented what I was trying to leave behind in Denver: the rules, consequences and worries of the world of man. Society. They had the stench of the city. The stench of the 21st century. We were physically separated from Denver, but the smell still lingered in my nostrils. It was a whisper on the wind. An ill-tempered spirit. I carried the knowledge of rapists, addicts, lost souls, and desperate hoarders. I was born a child of nature. The mountains and rivers and lakes and trees do not expose us to the often brutish ugly and short lives of man. But living in the society of man had exposed me to all of its demented possibilities. Rapes. Murders. Betrayal. Greed. Corruption. Hate. I lived with the memories. I could never get rid of them completely. The knowledge of what I’d been exposed to kept the possibilities alive inside of me. Modern man spends so much time trying to stay alive that they have forgotten how to live. It’s why they flee into the mountains and forget all about the hustle and bustle of the city that turn men against each other. They seek refuge in the impartiality of nature. Wild and free children of nature. Sojourning into nature is giving into the beast in us. But it is a beast that yearns to be free, not one that has become so by what society has done to it. A healthy, natural animal, not a twisted subverted one. The latter nonetheless lurked inside of me. It is the fear I felt at the sight of the blue lights.
The road entered a down slope and our speed rose to fifteen above the limit. We were in the right lane doing about 70. Up ahead to the right a vehicle was pulled over in a turn-around area. Many cars found the side of the road, and I was unalarmed. But the boxy outline of a Crown Victoria made my stomach turn. Desperate fear rose up inside me, the same feeling as earlier. My roommate leaned heavily on the brakes, hoping to slow before passing him. To our horror the standard-issue street soldier pulled out. He had a target, and we were a suspect.
The police were making a statement to powder-freaks that this was their turf. It did not turn into a winter-sport orgy as soon as snow started falling in the mountains. The New Hampshire plates and truck bed lined with skis marked us as drifters, slackers, exactly the type they meant to teach a lesson.
The down slope ended in a very sharp curve to the right. We fell in behind an 18-wheeler in the right lane. The cop was in the left lane, steadily gaining ground. He was now back only one car length, making no attempt to speed by en route to more important business. I felt a nightmarish fear. The kind of fear in a horror flick where you hear the music and know the bad guy is there waiting to jump out and get you. He spaced himself between our truck and the vehicle behind us. It was down to two. His lights came on. It was either us or the other guy. It was the other guy.
After 60 miles we exited I-70 and made the rest of the ascent via a twisting mountain pass. The road was narrow, steep, and very curvy. It was much more dangerous than I had imagined. It switched back and forth across the mountain in steep, sweeping curves. It has snowed the night before, and a layer of snow and slush still covered the road. I knew there might be ice as well. There were no guardrails, and a mishap meant a plunge over the edge
We were deep in the mountains. Tall peaks towered above us. We stopped so I could take a piss. I was standing on the side of the road in the dark. I couldn’t so much see the mountain as discern the outline of its shadowy presence high above me. The craggy faces of the old men of the land loomed overhead, promoting a deep respect and making me feel as a child again. It seemed very important. Tall and imposing. Looking over the land. A stony sentinel. It was one of those moments where the past few months finally catch up with you and you realize how happy you are with yourself and your surroundings. I was in the goddam Rocky Mountains. It was snowing and dark and I was pissing off the side of a mountain. I couldn’t believe I was there. Actually in the goddam Rockies. More powder up here than I knew what to do with. I made it. I’m here. I got out of New Hampshire. I exploded with a primitive, beast-like howl that must have lasted twenty seconds-a barbaric yawp worthy of the might stone and deep pride of the mountains.
After about a two hour drive we arrived at the bar where our accomplice awaited. As we entered I scanned the room for him. It was a slow night and the place was fairly empty. A blonde, the only girl worth looking at in the place, was shooting pool with a group of guys in a step-up area to the left. The usual lineup of stooped over middle-aged men sat at the bar.
I spotted my accomplice on the left end of the bar. He looked drunk. He was talking to somebody. He introduced us to his new friend whom he claimed would let us ski for free during his shift at the local mountain. His name was Steve. He had beady eyes sunk back into his head, and discolored skin from a constantly lit cigarette. He looked past me as he spoke, as if everything he said was a sudden epiphany or required deep concentration. There was pain in his eyes. I asked questions just to see him speak. He fascinated me. He had the teeth of a drug user, browned and spaced apart. He slugged down two shots of old Granddad whisky in the brief time we exchanged pleasantries. He repeatedly proclaimed his offer of free skiing, but always left it hanging. I could sense he wanted something in return.
He ended up only asking for a ride home, but good company is what he wanted most. Entering his humble domain revealed why. His apartment was as threadbare as himself. A couch was the only piece of furniture-a green sunken thing long-intended for the trash, but salvaged by a desperate soul. As we entered his roommate hissed something about outsiders from the sunken cushions. My accomplice kicked him and he crawled defeated out of the room never to be heard from again.
We all drank beer and traded stories. Steve revealed to be a man with a troubled past. He’s from Pittsburgh and a halfway decent mechanic by his account. He repeated this several times. I knew it was important to him. His vehicle of choice is a Fiero with a Vette engine, tuned to perfection by my new friend. His girlfriend died of a heroin overdose, and he looked as if he had a few close calls himself. In the light I could see him better. He was the same age as us, in his mid-twenties, but looked 42. He removed his grimy white hoodie to reveal several tattoos, including several on his arm and one on his neck.
He had been worn down by society. His body was prematurely aged by taking drugs and working on its crude machines. He had survived, but his girlfriend was dead. He was jaded. I could see the anger in his eyes. I pictured him as a happy blonde baby with wonder and hope in his eyes, tottering around with a diaper on and smiling. He didn’t yet know the pain of drugs or death or physical toil. Not yet exposed to the crude reality of a city like Pittsburgh. I looked at him now and saw what society had done to him. He had felt the ravages of drugs. His body was prematurely aged. His lover was dead; killed by society. He was sick; poisoned by society. It had turned him into a desperate beast who had fled to the mountains to save himself. At least he was trying. The mountains are a twelve step program for the soul. It’s a place people go to get clean, to wash away their soiled memories.
I didn’t need the tour; I knew the place was a dump. However I could not stifle my curiosity and peeked my head into his room. It contained nothing more than an alarm clock, an open suitcase, an assortment of papers, and a black trash bag with yellow drawstrings. There was no mattress. Men like this don’t sleep. He had bought a one way ticket, packed a suitcase, and gotten on a plane. He truly had been desperate. Even still he described his current situation as all gravy. His outlook revealed the mountains were doing their job. I could only imagine what he looked like before leaving Pittsburgh. I admired his spirit. He wasn’t that different from us. While not as bad off as him we sought refuge for similar reasons. We all needed to escape the barbaric tendencies of the city. The mountains offer a fresh start high and detached from the rest of the world. The thin air and deep powder offer a chance for salvation. Fresh tracks.
After picking up our accomplice and our run-in with the pirate Steve, we sought lodging for the night. We needed a good night’s rest. The next day would bring Vail. It is a Mecca for native east-coast skiers. Our accomplice had gotten a taste of the West. Tomorrow was the real deal. Once I skied out here I knew back home would never be the same. I felt guilty about my affection for this new land, like I was cheating on somebody. I thought of home and the landscape that raised me. The trees, earth, and water that nurtured my young body. The sun that turned my skin a toasted brown in the lazy days of summer. That land in a way defined me. It had worked itself into my body over the years, and myself into it. It was the womb that carried me as I became a man, and it had finally given me up, allowed me to roam free, swim in new rivers, pick my way through new paths, and marvel at the craggy, stern beauty of another land. I had been released into the care of the mighty Rockies. I felt like a spirit guide to my accomplice, showing him the mystic beauty of a new land.
We decided to stay in Dillon, about a half hour outside of Vail. We checked all the major chain hotels and found nothing under $80. Unsatisfied, we continued our search until we found the moderately sleazy confines of a single room at the Interstate Inn at $60 per night. I considered ducking down as we drove the office, but it was pointless at a place like this. They offered rooms. No questions asked. We could have gotten out of the truck with a tiger and a procession of dwarves in authentic Civil War costumes. The room was tiny and the thermostat was broken. I gave it a turn and it came right out of the wall. There was barely enough room for the three of us. Our driver claimed the bed without much resistance, and my accomplice and I took our respective places at the side and foot like devoted beasts. The pack slept.
At dawn we were up and on the prowl. Emotions were high as we made the thirty minute drive up to Vail. We blared AC/DC to complete the effect. This was it. Vail. The real deal. My accomplice could barely contain himself. This is why he was here.
We stopped for breakfast in a small mining town off of the interstate. It was set down in a valley, and red and tan rock rose up all around it like a fortress. We selected the place with the most cars in the parking lots. The locals know best. They are but the latest generation to toil in this town. They’re here because their ancestors went off in search of riches. They too sought the West and the mountains for a new start. But for many their only legacy was here in this lonely town. A ghost town. Not all succeed in their quest for salvation.
Inside we took seats at the counter and were greeted immediately with hot cups of coffee. The place was pretty busy, and a handful of waitresses were attending to the crowd. They were directed by an older woman who looked as though she had been doing this her whole life. The matriarch of the crew. There’s always one in a place like this. There’s always one cute waitress too. In this case she was blonde with a nice smile. I imagined she was the great great great granddaughter of a prospector who made his way up here many years ago. I wanted to know her story. I wanted to take her out and kiss her pretty mouth and find out all about her. I wanted to hear about her family and how she ended up here and if she ever hated this lonely ghost town. I wanted to save her.
I didn’t have time for that. Vail awaited. The real deal. Once we got there we geared up in the parking lot, slung our equipment over our shoulders, and hiked over to the gondola. I felt giddy with anticipation for the first run of the day. Every guy yearns to be the most bad ass skier on the mountain, and about one out of five is convinced he actually is. I sized up the skiers who glided by beneath me. I wondered about my accomplice. We had never skied together. When a group of men come together a pecking order develops. A hierarchy. On the mountain, the leader sets the pace and the rest fall into order, trying to overtake him, wanting to lead. A poor choice gives another the chance to step up and lead. On any given day each member of the pack will have the chance to take over.
The order of the pack became more apparent as our day of skiing wore on. I was running last most of the day. The first run set the tone. My roommate ducked off course and the pack followed. I knew I was in over my head, but I had to continue. I had to follow the pack. I still wanted to lead. The other two disappeared over a ridge and I was on my own. I followed a set of tracks that brought me down a steep grade that led into a patch of birch trees.
It was unspoiled terrain with waist deep powder. I wasn’t used to skiing in such deep snow and found if very difficult. I was floating on the powder, not touching solid ground. It was very difficult to keep my balance. I had to maneuver my way between trees. I was scared. I was way over my head. Speed was required to get through snow this deep. As soon as I started to slow down I sank and lost momentum. I didn’t feel confident at all and knew it was a matter of time before I fell.
I went down on my side and sunk into the deep powder. I flailed around and sank more. It was like quicksand. I began to panic. Nobody else would come this way. I was out of bounds. I felt ashamed for my failure. The pack was far ahead. Any hopes of leading were sinking with me down into the snow. I dug my poles in and they sank almost all the way up to the handle. I pushed up as hard as I could but couldn’t hold myself and fell back in. I was desperate with fear and tried again. I pushed with raw, animal survival strength. I was up. I leaned forward and started to creep ahead. I needed to regain some momentum; without it I was sure to creep to a halt and get stuck again. I wasn’t even sure where the trail came out. A hike in waist deep snow could take all day. There were animals out there that could have eaten me.
I started to regain speed but wasn’t confident enough to maintain it completely. I skied in a horizontal path, ducking and dodging my way around trees and branches. I went over a small drop off unexpectedly and flailed around in the air. I was in way over my head. I hit the ground awkwardly and managed not to fall, but I was out of control. I was headed straight for a girthy tree. I made a wedge with my skis and slowed down the best I could. My legs were spread far apart and I was about to hit the tree crotch first so I put my arms out and wrapped it up. My momentum spun me around. My crotch and chest were pressed up against the tree while my legs were downhill ahead of the rest of my body. There was no way I could back up. I had to get my skis off. I reached for them but the angle was too awkward. I would have to use my pole. I stretched back so far it was painful. Click. My binding detached and my leg was free. I undid the other and tossed my skis uphill, then pulled myself up by the tree. The snow was deep, well up over my waist. Too deep to get my skis on. I worked my way uphill to a spot where I could step into them. I placed them in the snow at an angle and slammed my right foot in. Click. Then the other. Click.
I continued on down the mountain and began to gain confidence. I picked up speed but remained calm, and my turns became more natural. I went over another drop-off. I tucked my chest into my legs and sprung off of it. I sailed through the air and pulled my legs up. I eyed my landing and nailed it. I had a ton of speed. The trees were thinning out and I sliced between them like slalom markers. I felt good. I wanted to lead again. I wanted to find the pack and demonstrate my renewed confidence. I came out of the woods and met back up with a main trail. I stopped and looked back up the ridge I had just come down. Nature had almost claimed me, but I had survived. I felt wildly alive. I let loose with another howl. It echoed out through the valley. Somewhere off in the distance I could have sworn I heard a reply.
I met up with the rest of the pack later and we swapped stories about our day. We took some more runs together. I could sense my mishap earlier had taken me down a notch in their mind. I was still running last but steadily closing the gap. With each descent I inched closer to gaining the lead. The pack, seeming to take notice, pushed on harder and faster. They didn’t want to give up their spot.
On one of the last runs of the day we took the chairlift to the summit. From there we hiked another 300 feet to the top of a peak. We were the highest point in the area.. The view was amazing. All around was the steady rise and fall of peaks and valleys. There was no sign of civilization. Not one building, one blaring smokestack, or one car. It was snow, rock, trees, and rivers. It was pure serenity.
We clicked into our bindings. We decided this would be the last run of the day. It was my final chance to lead the pack. I seized the opportunity and was the first to begin the descent. I barreled down with dangerous speed. The terrain was wind blown and icy in areas. Several times I felt my edges start to slip out from under me. I didn’t need to look back to know they were right behind me. I could feel the pack hot on my heels, trying to overtake me. I wouldn’t let them. The speed and treacherous terrain frightened me, but I pushed on through it. I was leading, which meant I also had to keep the safety of the pack in mind. If we suddenly plunged over a cliff it was my fault. While competitive, our brotherhood was also one of compassion. I did not wish to lead them astray. I maintained my speed and managed to fend off the pack all the way to the bottom. They clapped me on the shoulder in a playful manner. Their shows of affection indicated I had redeemed myself to the pack. I felt deep satisfaction.
Skiing is a great challenge. Speeding down a mountain with slats of plastic strapped to one’s feet is an unnatural act. Trees. Rocks. Cliffs. Speed. Danger. I was afraid skiing many times that day, but it was a different kind of fear than I felt when I saw a cop with his blue lights on. Skiing produces fear for one’s safety, a primitive survival-inducing fear. It is natural and healthy. A firm reminder that nature is in charge and should be respected. A stern admonishment. The fear I had felt earlier on I-70 was a sick, unhealthy, unnatural fear. A fear of man and society. A fear for my soul. Evil. I couldn’t help but feel fear from nature. I was born with it. The other was a disease transmitted to me by society. I was a rabid beast. Every rape, murder, and otherwise unnatural act by man entices the beast within. Not the primitive beast with healthy fear, but a demented, diseased creature that had seen the horrors men inflict upon themselves and each other and been sickened by it.
